The USB OBD II Computer Cable—How to Use It, What It Does, and How to Make It Work for You!
When the check engine light device was started, it absolutely was intended that can help control vehicle emission to aid protect our surroundings. Now, most of us have an OBD II port of their cars. We start using these ports to obtain trouble codes (also called check engine lights and "CEL") and diagnose our vehicles.
What lots of people don't realize is we can do far more with our OBD II ports than determine if our engine has trouble. In this informative article, we're going in-depth what OBD II ports are and the way we have used them today.
OBD II Code Readers: USB vs. Hand-Held
OBD II has come a long way since 1996 and now we now have the technology your can purchase OBD II code readers in this home and office. You once had to pay a reasonably penny (up to $50) just to have a code read, however in today's modern world you can obtain your own basic OBD II code reader for your same price.
It's still true, however, that you will get what you purchase. That said, the normal DIY mechanic won't need anything not affordable when it comes to a brand new code reader. You can get a
basic hand-held OBD II code scanner for approximately $50 from the local auto store or local store (and even cheaper on Amazon). However, with technology comes new methods for reading your trouble codes and after this your personal laptop (designed with a USB OBD II cable and also the proper software) can perform all the work available for you.
I'll enter some on the basics with the items hand-held readers can perform vs USB laptop readers and my estimation on them both.
Hand-held OBD2 Readers
Lets get started with the hand-held OBD II readers. For a basic code reader that could read check engine lights, provde the codes (though they don't really usually inform you what they mean), and erase them available for you, you have been looking at around $50 at a store or maybe $38 shipped from an internet vendor.
These have become basic and only let you know what codes you're getting which enables it to clear the check engine light to suit your needs. A decent ODB II code reader may cost anywhere from $90 - $200 and they've got more data capabilities, for instance showing you the freeze frame, which would be the captured data which is stored about important sensors right at that moment a check engine light is triggered. Freeze frame data can display you wherever a problem is actually you understand the way a car works and rehearse your knowledge around the symptoms you're experiencing while using CEL you're receiving.
Using a USB OBD2 Code Reader
However, quite a while back, people established how to create USB-driven OBD II cables which hook up on your laptop and will check sensor data and do just about anything else a hand-held OBD II code reader are capable of doing. They can go about doing a bit more together with the proper software. For half the price of handheld along with the ability to do more, it sounds promising enough already, right?
One on the better things concerning the USB OBD II cables is you aren't restricted by the cable, like one is not much better than the other, it serves as being a link between your laptop (which does the many work) plus your OBD II port inside your car (that is sending all of the data).
For roughly $20 dollars you can have a
USB OBD II cable on Amazon or you'll be able to try your luck on Ebay. However, you simply won't find one as part of your local auto or store. Just remember, unless the cable is completely poorly made or damaged, you can find hardly any differences between one USB OBD II cable and another. The software is exactly what matters! I'll cover that below.
Sample Screen of OBDII Computer Software
OBD II Software to the Computer
Like anything, you get that which you pay for! There are literally plenty of OBD II scanning software which is out there. Some of the usb ports's free plus some of it costs a fantastic chunk of cash. I'm gonna briefly focus on a few products, whatever they do, what features they've already and most importantly, the amount they cost!
ScanTool '” An Expensive but Well-Known Product
Price tag: from $65.99
One in the better known lines of OBD II software scanning products is known as "ScanTool" and you'll find their programs and OBD II USB Cables at They actually have a very whole distinctive line of different sorts of products, from specially-designed products a variety of car manufacturers, touch-screen based programs and in many cases your basic checking and clearing codes programs. Their programs cover anything from $25 to roughly $130, with an increase of for add-ons you can obtain, in addition to their specific OBD II cable for your personal computer. Not bad, and you can have a very good tuner for concerning the price of their "full setup."
ProScan'”The One I Use
Price tag: $39.99
Another quality program is named "ProScan" this is actually normally the one I use in this little laptop. This does start using a generic USB OBD II cable as that is what I use. This program can be quite nice and recently enough features to maintain me thinking about it and not merely as a "okay, time to obtain the laptop to determine the codes" style of thing.
It lets you know what codes mean in plain English therefore you don't have to hang out Googling whatever code you received. It clears codes quickly and has now monitors for up to any sensor imaginable. It has a HP/Torque estimator which enables it to even offer you pretty accurate 1/4 mile times. Although I suggest if you need to use either these features, it's in a safe environment with not many people.
EasyOBDII'”The One I Recommend
Price tag: $19.99
The last program I'm going to mention is called "EasyOBDII." It's a rather good program and was one on the first ones I found and tinkered with. It offers you some decent sensor as well as other kinds of car information. However, we have a very limited risk free which only enables you to just about read codes and do several other small things - you cannot even clear your CEL along with it unless you have a very paid version.
However, ab muscles good news is the fact that a commercial license costs only $19.99! I'm not positive, but I think that the commercial version unlocks all you should need (and much more). The best bang for ones buck might be with this program along with the fact that you may get the free version and mess around by using it to become familiar together with the program is a great marketing strategy.
To tell the truth, I do love ProScan, however, if I hadn't snagged a totally free copy than it, I would have definitely bought EasyOBDII to get a mere $20. However, my best suggestion is always to research, research, research accessible to your conclusions. My opinions are simply just that, my opinions! Make sure you are able to understand and work the program before you even begin considering getting a USB OBD II cable!
Source
Background: What Is an OBD-II Port?
OBD will be short for "On-Board Diagnostics" and, much like the name suggests, it provides you with diagnostics on your own OBD-II equipped car. Not all cars make them, but when your car originates from 1996 or even more recent this almost certainly does because as of 1996 it had been required by law. There is really a chance that a pre-1996 car has a OBD II port, even if you would have to physically check to make certain.
What Are OBD Systems?
First, just a little history around the OBD port and what it's. On-board diagnostics, or OBD, within an automotive context, is usually a generic term discussing a vehicle's self-diagnostic and reporting capability. OBD systems offer the vehicle owner or repair technician having access to state-of-health information for several vehicle sub-systems. The amount of diagnostic information available via OBD has varied widely since their introduction of on-board vehicle computers as a result of 1980s through which made OBD possible.
In 1985, OBD I was shown standardise the way by which vehicle computers may very well be monitored. The report on functions that OBD I was able to perform grew using the need for real-time misfire detection, catalytic converters, Lambda sensors, and fault code capability.
After the OBD-I, the small known OBD 1.5 was already released. This was just like a beta version of OBD II. General Motors put on the extender in some 1994 and 95 vehicles. Post-catalytic lambda sensors were fitted along with the standards that dictated OBD II brought us the P Code (Trouble Codes).
Finally, in 1996 OBD II was introduced and with this particular came the 16-pin diagnostic connector that any of us see today. The OBD II standard specified the form of diagnostic connector, the messaging format, and also the way during which the electrical signaling protocols could be wired with it. The OBD II standard also provided a thorough list of diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) As a result of this standardization, an individual device could query the on-board computers in different vehicle.
The OBD-II specification provided for the standardized connector, the female 16-pin J1962 connector. Unlike the OBD-I connector, that has been sometimes found within the bonnet in the vehicle, the OBD-II connector is almost always located around the driver's side from the car often towards the steering column.
Ford DCL(+) Argentina, Brazil (pre OBD-II) 1997-2000
Chassis ground
Signal ground
K type of ISO 9141-2 and ISO 14230-4
Ford DCL(-) Argentina, Brazil (pre OBD-II) 1997-2000
L distinctive line of ISO 9141-2 and ISO 14230-4
Battery voltage
Unspecified pins (marked which has a "-") are still to the automobile manufacturer's discretion that may be connected to a model's specific systems.
Check Engine
What Trouble Codes Mean and What to Do About Them
If the car is "throwing a trouble code," e.g. the check engine light is on, then this is really a job on your OBD II equipment. It is the just like the "Service Engine Soon" light (SES) or even the "Malfunction Indicator Lamp" (MIL) light that happen to be displayed as part of your vehicle. Your OBD II code scanner and even your laptop can show you exactly why your check engine light is on.
The check engine light occurs after a period of energy when your laptop is sensing that something will go wrong (or "beyond spec"). When your check engine light comes on with your dash, consequently the vehicle engine computer (ecm) has stored some electrical signal indicating your engine carries a problem which could affect engine performance, drivability, stability, and/or fuel useage. Most in the time, these trouble codes are very important to check and connect immediately.
However, you will discover some exceptions for this. Just because the thing is the CEL will not automatically imply the engine itself is the culprit. For example, should you accidentally unplugged a vacuum hose, resulted in a coil or plug connector loose, or perhaps left your gas cap off by chance, likelihood is it will embark the CEL. The proper way to analyze the light source is to scan for codes and analyze it based about the engine symptoms.
If you've retrieved your code (or a mechanic or auto store retrieve it available for you) it's time and energy to figure out what this means! I would suggest searching for your codes about the OBD Codes website with the best accuracy across all models and makes of cars.
My Personal Views on USB vs Hand-Held OBD II Code Readers
As a normal "DIY" home mechanic, I enjoy working on my small car then when I have the time I do whatever maintenance I can about it. I've had check engine lights can occur before and also have had the pleasure utilizing multiple kinds of OBD II code scanners in order to know what went wrong with my car.
My First Hand-Held OBD II
The first one I used was one I found at Wal-Mart for $56 after tax plus it didn't do an excessive amount of. It displayed the codes in my experience and I could browse the opposite codes and erase them. If I planned to re-read the codes I would then click a button again (an overall total of three buttons were for the reader) plus it would display any codes again. That was it. For $56 I felt that this was somewhat too basic for me personally and all I needed it for would be a one-time read, so I took it back after I established what the codes meant, ever since the OBD II code reader didn't figure out.
My Second OBD II Code Reader
Then, I tried a buddy's Ebay OBD II code reader. He didn't specifically say it had been from Ebay, but that it was very much such as the one I had, but smaller sufficient reason for a tackier setup. He plugged it in and said it absolutely was weird since it had actually given him "F" prior to codes, that they "never saw before" however if I had to guess, it meant that the code would be a Ford code (the codes can sometime vary between different makes of car) and considering I employ a Mustang, that made sense in my experience.
His code reader also thought we would make up a P0000 code, which I couldn't find on any sort of database nor find a way to bring up on every other OBD II code scanner. However, it did enable you to scroll throughout the codes and clear them, much such as the one I bought from Ebay. It was exactly the same basic setup and talents, although I'm sure he paid about half of the items I did for mine.
After I sent my buddy on his way and fixed the challenge (approximately I thought) I been able to still possess a code or two left (there were several codes strung together caused by an important fuse blowing) so I attemptedto find a cheap reader I could order. I wasn't likely to drive my car again for a number of days, so that it could sit while I waited for your new one in the future.
My First USB OBD II Cable
I searched Ebay and located tons on the USB OBD II cables and decided, "Hey, if I will get some excellent software, you should?!" so that is what I did. Even though the majority from the USB OBD II cables consist of software, they normally are limited or trials. Also, the sellers are typically Chinese sellers and when they're perfectly found on the U.S., I guarantee these are reselling the Chinese cables, a minimum of, my seller was. The cable came pretty quick and I recommend you purchase from a U.S. seller, even if you'll pay more obviously, but that is up to you.
So manufactured came that I got my cable and I was thrilled. I looked at the included software and Googled all I could without cost software and yes it seems that the free stuff you can obtain is limited, usually for the point where you simply can't even remove the Check Engine Light, while it will explain to you what the code is AND (drumroll please!) will let you know in plain English was the code means!
What this means is the fact that instead of traversing to a P0307 code, it will show you the code plus "Misfire on cylinder #7" since it is exactly what a P0307 code means, and that means you don't have to go look up what are the code means which saves some time and trouble, and allows you to acquire to work immediately.
I managed to obtain a pretty nice program via a connection and I enjoy it. I can simply connect my USB OBD II cable right for the car in the computer and access any check engine light data (even pending codes), view live data, purchase an estimated 1/4 mile time, and in some cases get HP/Torque readings (however the two latter are a bit finicky and requies some messing around with).
Conclusion
Overall, for any mere $22 with the USB OBD II cable, I am pretty pleased with everything it allows you to do and look at. I bought my cable months ago and have tried on the extender constantly, even though it's just to help you me monitor data. It's a great tool and I suggest it. However, when you don't use a newer laptop (or even a laptop in any way) I would stick using a hand-held one since it would probably be quicker and easier in your case.
It all depends that which you need and desire out of an OBD II code scanner or in the event you want tuning capabilities, which I haven't found any decent software for yet under $500. At that rate, it is possible to just purchase a custom tuner on your vehicle. It's under your control!
OBD II Related Products - We All Need Them!
Did you realize it could cost as much as $50 for the shop to "diagnose" your check engine light?
Save money around the diagnosis and build-it-yourself! Pay to get a code scanner and yes it will buy itself on your own first CEL!
Basic USB Reader
This is often a basic USB OBD II cable for the laptop which is just such as the one I have and rehearse. It works wonders and I suggest it!
This offers you the capacity to read and record: engine RPM, calculated load value, coolant temperature, fuel system status, vehicle speed, temporary fuel trim, extended fuel trim, intake manifold pressure, timing advance, intake air temperature, ventilation rate, absolute throttle position, oxygen sensor voltages/associated, short-term fuel trims, fuel system status, fuel pressure, and lots of other sensors together with the proper software (these might not be included, consult with sellers!)
When the check engine light device was started, it absolutely was intended that can help control vehicle emission to aid protect our surroundings. Now, most of us have an OBD II port of their cars. We start using these ports to obtain trouble codes (also called check engine lights and "CEL") and diagnose our vehicles.
What lots of people don't realize is we can do far more with our OBD II ports than determine if our engine has trouble. In this informative article, we're going in-depth what OBD II ports are and the way we have used them today.
OBD II Code Readers: USB vs. Hand-Held
OBD II has come a long way since 1996 and now we now have the technology your can purchase OBD II code readers in this home and office. You once had to pay a reasonably penny (up to $50) just to have a code read, however in today's modern world you can obtain your own basic OBD II code reader for your same price.
It's still true, however, that you will get what you purchase. That said, the normal DIY mechanic won't need anything not affordable when it comes to a brand new code reader. You can get a
basic hand-held OBD II code scanner for approximately $50 from the local auto store or local store (and even cheaper on Amazon). However, with technology comes new methods for reading your trouble codes and after this your personal laptop (designed with a USB OBD II cable and also the proper software) can perform all the work available for you.
I'll enter some on the basics with the items hand-held readers can perform vs USB laptop readers and my estimation on them both.
Hand-held OBD2 Readers
Lets get started with the hand-held OBD II readers. For a basic code reader that could read check engine lights, provde the codes (though they don't really usually inform you what they mean), and erase them available for you, you have been looking at around $50 at a store or maybe $38 shipped from an internet vendor.
These have become basic and only let you know what codes you're getting which enables it to clear the check engine light to suit your needs. A decent ODB II code reader may cost anywhere from $90 - $200 and they've got more data capabilities, for instance showing you the freeze frame, which would be the captured data which is stored about important sensors right at that moment a check engine light is triggered. Freeze frame data can display you wherever a problem is actually you understand the way a car works and rehearse your knowledge around the symptoms you're experiencing while using CEL you're receiving.
Using a USB OBD2 Code Reader
However, quite a while back, people established how to create USB-driven OBD II cables which hook up on your laptop and will check sensor data and do just about anything else a hand-held OBD II code reader are capable of doing. They can go about doing a bit more together with the proper software. For half the price of handheld along with the ability to do more, it sounds promising enough already, right?
One on the better things concerning the USB OBD II cables is you aren't restricted by the cable, like one is not much better than the other, it serves as being a link between your laptop (which does the many work) plus your OBD II port inside your car (that is sending all of the data).
For roughly $20 dollars you can have a
USB OBD II cable on Amazon or you'll be able to try your luck on Ebay. However, you simply won't find one as part of your local auto or store. Just remember, unless the cable is completely poorly made or damaged, you can find hardly any differences between one USB OBD II cable and another. The software is exactly what matters! I'll cover that below.
Sample Screen of OBDII Computer Software
OBD II Software to the Computer
Like anything, you get that which you pay for! There are literally plenty of OBD II scanning software which is out there. Some of the usb ports's free plus some of it costs a fantastic chunk of cash. I'm gonna briefly focus on a few products, whatever they do, what features they've already and most importantly, the amount they cost!
ScanTool '” An Expensive but Well-Known Product
Price tag: from $65.99
One in the better known lines of OBD II software scanning products is known as "ScanTool" and you'll find their programs and OBD II USB Cables at They actually have a very whole distinctive line of different sorts of products, from specially-designed products a variety of car manufacturers, touch-screen based programs and in many cases your basic checking and clearing codes programs. Their programs cover anything from $25 to roughly $130, with an increase of for add-ons you can obtain, in addition to their specific OBD II cable for your personal computer. Not bad, and you can have a very good tuner for concerning the price of their "full setup."
ProScan'”The One I Use
Price tag: $39.99
Another quality program is named "ProScan" this is actually normally the one I use in this little laptop. This does start using a generic USB OBD II cable as that is what I use. This program can be quite nice and recently enough features to maintain me thinking about it and not merely as a "okay, time to obtain the laptop to determine the codes" style of thing.
It lets you know what codes mean in plain English therefore you don't have to hang out Googling whatever code you received. It clears codes quickly and has now monitors for up to any sensor imaginable. It has a HP/Torque estimator which enables it to even offer you pretty accurate 1/4 mile times. Although I suggest if you need to use either these features, it's in a safe environment with not many people.
EasyOBDII'”The One I Recommend
Price tag: $19.99
The last program I'm going to mention is called "EasyOBDII." It's a rather good program and was one on the first ones I found and tinkered with. It offers you some decent sensor as well as other kinds of car information. However, we have a very limited risk free which only enables you to just about read codes and do several other small things - you cannot even clear your CEL along with it unless you have a very paid version.
However, ab muscles good news is the fact that a commercial license costs only $19.99! I'm not positive, but I think that the commercial version unlocks all you should need (and much more). The best bang for ones buck might be with this program along with the fact that you may get the free version and mess around by using it to become familiar together with the program is a great marketing strategy.
To tell the truth, I do love ProScan, however, if I hadn't snagged a totally free copy than it, I would have definitely bought EasyOBDII to get a mere $20. However, my best suggestion is always to research, research, research accessible to your conclusions. My opinions are simply just that, my opinions! Make sure you are able to understand and work the program before you even begin considering getting a USB OBD II cable!
Source
Background: What Is an OBD-II Port?
OBD will be short for "On-Board Diagnostics" and, much like the name suggests, it provides you with diagnostics on your own OBD-II equipped car. Not all cars make them, but when your car originates from 1996 or even more recent this almost certainly does because as of 1996 it had been required by law. There is really a chance that a pre-1996 car has a OBD II port, even if you would have to physically check to make certain.
What Are OBD Systems?
First, just a little history around the OBD port and what it's. On-board diagnostics, or OBD, within an automotive context, is usually a generic term discussing a vehicle's self-diagnostic and reporting capability. OBD systems offer the vehicle owner or repair technician having access to state-of-health information for several vehicle sub-systems. The amount of diagnostic information available via OBD has varied widely since their introduction of on-board vehicle computers as a result of 1980s through which made OBD possible.
In 1985, OBD I was shown standardise the way by which vehicle computers may very well be monitored. The report on functions that OBD I was able to perform grew using the need for real-time misfire detection, catalytic converters, Lambda sensors, and fault code capability.
After the OBD-I, the small known OBD 1.5 was already released. This was just like a beta version of OBD II. General Motors put on the extender in some 1994 and 95 vehicles. Post-catalytic lambda sensors were fitted along with the standards that dictated OBD II brought us the P Code (Trouble Codes).
Finally, in 1996 OBD II was introduced and with this particular came the 16-pin diagnostic connector that any of us see today. The OBD II standard specified the form of diagnostic connector, the messaging format, and also the way during which the electrical signaling protocols could be wired with it. The OBD II standard also provided a thorough list of diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) As a result of this standardization, an individual device could query the on-board computers in different vehicle.
The OBD-II specification provided for the standardized connector, the female 16-pin J1962 connector. Unlike the OBD-I connector, that has been sometimes found within the bonnet in the vehicle, the OBD-II connector is almost always located around the driver's side from the car often towards the steering column.
Ford DCL(+) Argentina, Brazil (pre OBD-II) 1997-2000
Chassis ground
Signal ground
K type of ISO 9141-2 and ISO 14230-4
Ford DCL(-) Argentina, Brazil (pre OBD-II) 1997-2000
L distinctive line of ISO 9141-2 and ISO 14230-4
Battery voltage
Unspecified pins (marked which has a "-") are still to the automobile manufacturer's discretion that may be connected to a model's specific systems.
Check Engine
What Trouble Codes Mean and What to Do About Them
If the car is "throwing a trouble code," e.g. the check engine light is on, then this is really a job on your OBD II equipment. It is the just like the "Service Engine Soon" light (SES) or even the "Malfunction Indicator Lamp" (MIL) light that happen to be displayed as part of your vehicle. Your OBD II code scanner and even your laptop can show you exactly why your check engine light is on.
The check engine light occurs after a period of energy when your laptop is sensing that something will go wrong (or "beyond spec"). When your check engine light comes on with your dash, consequently the vehicle engine computer (ecm) has stored some electrical signal indicating your engine carries a problem which could affect engine performance, drivability, stability, and/or fuel useage. Most in the time, these trouble codes are very important to check and connect immediately.
However, you will discover some exceptions for this. Just because the thing is the CEL will not automatically imply the engine itself is the culprit. For example, should you accidentally unplugged a vacuum hose, resulted in a coil or plug connector loose, or perhaps left your gas cap off by chance, likelihood is it will embark the CEL. The proper way to analyze the light source is to scan for codes and analyze it based about the engine symptoms.
If you've retrieved your code (or a mechanic or auto store retrieve it available for you) it's time and energy to figure out what this means! I would suggest searching for your codes about the OBD Codes website with the best accuracy across all models and makes of cars.
My Personal Views on USB vs Hand-Held OBD II Code Readers
As a normal "DIY" home mechanic, I enjoy working on my small car then when I have the time I do whatever maintenance I can about it. I've had check engine lights can occur before and also have had the pleasure utilizing multiple kinds of OBD II code scanners in order to know what went wrong with my car.
My First Hand-Held OBD II
The first one I used was one I found at Wal-Mart for $56 after tax plus it didn't do an excessive amount of. It displayed the codes in my experience and I could browse the opposite codes and erase them. If I planned to re-read the codes I would then click a button again (an overall total of three buttons were for the reader) plus it would display any codes again. That was it. For $56 I felt that this was somewhat too basic for me personally and all I needed it for would be a one-time read, so I took it back after I established what the codes meant, ever since the OBD II code reader didn't figure out.
My Second OBD II Code Reader
Then, I tried a buddy's Ebay OBD II code reader. He didn't specifically say it had been from Ebay, but that it was very much such as the one I had, but smaller sufficient reason for a tackier setup. He plugged it in and said it absolutely was weird since it had actually given him "F" prior to codes, that they "never saw before" however if I had to guess, it meant that the code would be a Ford code (the codes can sometime vary between different makes of car) and considering I employ a Mustang, that made sense in my experience.
His code reader also thought we would make up a P0000 code, which I couldn't find on any sort of database nor find a way to bring up on every other OBD II code scanner. However, it did enable you to scroll throughout the codes and clear them, much such as the one I bought from Ebay. It was exactly the same basic setup and talents, although I'm sure he paid about half of the items I did for mine.
After I sent my buddy on his way and fixed the challenge (approximately I thought) I been able to still possess a code or two left (there were several codes strung together caused by an important fuse blowing) so I attemptedto find a cheap reader I could order. I wasn't likely to drive my car again for a number of days, so that it could sit while I waited for your new one in the future.
My First USB OBD II Cable
I searched Ebay and located tons on the USB OBD II cables and decided, "Hey, if I will get some excellent software, you should?!" so that is what I did. Even though the majority from the USB OBD II cables consist of software, they normally are limited or trials. Also, the sellers are typically Chinese sellers and when they're perfectly found on the U.S., I guarantee these are reselling the Chinese cables, a minimum of, my seller was. The cable came pretty quick and I recommend you purchase from a U.S. seller, even if you'll pay more obviously, but that is up to you.
So manufactured came that I got my cable and I was thrilled. I looked at the included software and Googled all I could without cost software and yes it seems that the free stuff you can obtain is limited, usually for the point where you simply can't even remove the Check Engine Light, while it will explain to you what the code is AND (drumroll please!) will let you know in plain English was the code means!
What this means is the fact that instead of traversing to a P0307 code, it will show you the code plus "Misfire on cylinder #7" since it is exactly what a P0307 code means, and that means you don't have to go look up what are the code means which saves some time and trouble, and allows you to acquire to work immediately.
I managed to obtain a pretty nice program via a connection and I enjoy it. I can simply connect my USB OBD II cable right for the car in the computer and access any check engine light data (even pending codes), view live data, purchase an estimated 1/4 mile time, and in some cases get HP/Torque readings (however the two latter are a bit finicky and requies some messing around with).
Conclusion
Overall, for any mere $22 with the USB OBD II cable, I am pretty pleased with everything it allows you to do and look at. I bought my cable months ago and have tried on the extender constantly, even though it's just to help you me monitor data. It's a great tool and I suggest it. However, when you don't use a newer laptop (or even a laptop in any way) I would stick using a hand-held one since it would probably be quicker and easier in your case.
It all depends that which you need and desire out of an OBD II code scanner or in the event you want tuning capabilities, which I haven't found any decent software for yet under $500. At that rate, it is possible to just purchase a custom tuner on your vehicle. It's under your control!
OBD II Related Products - We All Need Them!
Did you realize it could cost as much as $50 for the shop to "diagnose" your check engine light?
Save money around the diagnosis and build-it-yourself! Pay to get a code scanner and yes it will buy itself on your own first CEL!
Basic USB Reader
This is often a basic USB OBD II cable for the laptop which is just such as the one I have and rehearse. It works wonders and I suggest it!
This offers you the capacity to read and record: engine RPM, calculated load value, coolant temperature, fuel system status, vehicle speed, temporary fuel trim, extended fuel trim, intake manifold pressure, timing advance, intake air temperature, ventilation rate, absolute throttle position, oxygen sensor voltages/associated, short-term fuel trims, fuel system status, fuel pressure, and lots of other sensors together with the proper software (these might not be included, consult with sellers!)